Do the caliper relocation kit FIRST!
These words are for those who want to lower the back of their bike. I did it in the wrong order, and have the small dent and chipped paint to prove it. While the caliper relocation kit is a little harder than the shock swap, it's not very hard if you have good tools and patience. Read on to find out how it's done and how it turned out.
The kit i got was from a gentleman on All Aero. The hardware necessary was a new, huge bolt and a custom stainless bracket. There is at least one other kit or method available, but the reasoning behind the modification and the end results are the same. The caliper sits up there, perched on the rotor, looking ugly as sin. The kit is intended to move the rotor under the swingarm, out of sight and where it can't do damange to a lowered rear.
The first steps were to simply follow the instructions that came with the kit. I used a few socket sizes, namely 12 and 14mm for most of the bolts, a smaller one for the brake fluid cover, and a couple very large sockets for the axle nut and the new 3/4" bolt. I began by loosening everything, starting with the brake line, then the bolt that holds the caliper in place, the banjo bolt and then the azle nut. Any exhaust will only get in the way, stock or otherwise. If you're using the stock 2-1, go ahead and remove it at this point as it will make things easier to get at and prevent scratches. If you have a system with separate pipes, take off the rear if it will give you better access. Some long, dual pipes may need to be removed completely.
Once you have loosened everything, remove the caliper. The banjo bold on the brake line and the two bolts holding the caliper to the bracket will need to come off, then simply set the caliper aside. The pads are captured, but will swing around. At this point, loosend the axle nut and rotate the bracket towards the back of the bike so that the keeper hole is visible and accessible. Re-tighten the axle nut to keep it in place because you will be putting a lot of stress on it. I'd recommend re-installing the keeper bolt, but so that it comes out to the right of the bracket, preventing it from rotating clockwise. Here's where the real fun begins.The aluminum bracket stands no chance against a hard bit. On both the drill bit and tap, use a piece of tape to mark the depth you want the bit to go to. The meat of the bracket you'll be drilling through doesn't go all the way through the bracket, but it is very close to an inch. Also, put something against the rotor to prevent any accidental damage if you do happen to blow through quickly. Take your drill and 11/16" bit and start making the keeper hole bigger. A friend is helpful at this point, to help make sure that you're drilling in squarely. Count on the aluminum being pretty soft, but it will still put up a good fight. If it binds, which it will, just keep the speed high.
After you punch through the bracket with the drill, clean up the shavings and get ready to tap. Use motor oil or another lubricant, like PBBlaster to make it a bit easier. The lubricant will also help collect the shavings from the tap. We used a 7/16 open-ended wrench at first, with some success, but as we encountered more material, a vice-grip was used instead. A 7/16th 12-sided socket should also give a good bite, and an crescent wrench will also do well. The tap will be inclined to follow the hole, but try to keep it as square as possible. Any quality tap will eat through the aluminum easily, but it's still some work. Make sure and back out the tap to clear the shavings repeatedly, and to test the quality of the threads. Once all the way through, clean out the threads and test your bolt. In my case, the fit was perfect.
Loosen the axle nut again and rotate the whole bracket under the swingarm. Back out the keeper bolt, then fit the small end of the bracket over the end and line up new hole, bracket and bolt. It should fit very well. Make sure everything lines up, but don't tighten everything quite yet. Take the caliper and bleed it. Use a piece of wood or another material to put between the brake pads, simulating the thickness of the rotor and bleed it. The reason for bleeding the caliper off the bike is that the air is very difficult to purche when the caliper is upside down. After bleeding, attach the caliper. The brake line will attach in the opposite direction that it did before, and it may touch another part of the caliper. Adding some anti-chaffing wrap would be a good idea, but may not be necessary, as there should be no great movement of the line.
Now tighten everything, clean up, admire the new look of your bike and take it for a test ride
Caliper removed and drilled.
Caliper under the swingarm.
Installed, my big butt on the bike.
Much cleaner, lower and sleeker.
Side profile with some weight on it, super low.